Wire rope clips are the field method for forming eyes and joining rope — simple hardware with strict rules, because a mis-installed clip termination can slip at a fraction of rope strength. The rules fit on one page; here they are.

Never Saddle a Dead Horse

A clip has a saddle (the forged base) and a U-bolt. The saddle always goes on the live (load-carrying) line; the U-bolt bears on the dead (tail) end. The U-bolt notches whatever it clamps — put it on the live line and you've damaged the rope that's carrying the load. Every clip in the termination faces the same direction.

Clip Count, Spacing & Torque (Crosby G-450 Guidance)

Space clips 6–7 rope diameters apart, first clip snug against the thimble. Follow the manufacturer's table for the clip in hand — forged and malleable clips differ, and malleable clips are not for critical or lifting service.

The Steps That Get Skipped

Use a thimble in the eye — an unthimbled eye kinks and wears at the pin. Apply first load, then retorque every nut: rope constricts under load and clip tension relaxes. Retorque again periodically in service. And know the efficiency: a correctly made clip termination develops roughly 80% of rope strength — flemish eye mechanical splices develop more, which is why shop-made slings use them.

Fist Grips

Double-saddle clips (fist grips) eliminate the dead-horse mistake — both sides are saddles — and install with two wrenches. Same count, spacing, and retorque rules apply.

When Not to Use Clips

Clips are for field terminations, guy lines, and temporary work. For lifting slings, specify shop-made flemish eye and swaged terminations with proof tests — which we build in-house with certs.

Clips, Thimbles & Finished Slings

Forged clips, thimbles, and wire rope cut to length — or skip the field work and order finished slings. Rope size and hardware list into the quote form at the top of the page — quotes answered during business hours.